TRAIL OF GEMS: June 2008

If you've heard of the ruins of Olympos in Turkey, then you've probably heard of Olympos tree houses. This area is also where people come to do a nocturnal visit to Fire on the Mountain. Mount Chimaera is pock-marked with small holes from which flames leap out due to exiting gases spontaneously combusting upon mixing with air. (it's true!!) In ancient times these flames spawned the myth of the fire-breathing monster Chimaera and in more recent centuries running contests were held starting at the very top of the break-neck steep slope.

Along the coast the order of appearance is Olympos treehouse hostels, Olympos ruins, the small village of Çıralı and then the road winds along to the mountain. Many backpackers stay in the treehouse party enclaves and we heard Bayram's has a fun, bustling atmosphere. However, we were looking for something a little more... grown-up and local.

We certainly got rewarded for our efforts. After an uncomfortable 4km walk along the shifting beach pebbles, we arrived at the entrance to Çıralı marked with a zillion signs for pensions (guesthouses). This is where Turks go to vacation by the sea-side. I offered to do the leg-work going from one place to another in the hot sun because this very day Rich was celebrating his birthday and so deserved to relax with our bags in the shade underneath the forest of signs. In fact, this proved to be the best method for landing a bed for the night as pension owners looking for guests approached Rich and even discussed amongst themselves who had the best deal.

We ended up staying with Mehmet at Nur Pansiyon who couldn't have been a better host. He gave us a killer deal (it was still the off-season), made fantastic coffee and food (do NOT miss his offers of cooking multi-course meals to spoil your taste buds!) and generally made us feel like friends in a home away from home. Superemely good luck put us there just 2 weeks after his cat had adorable kittens! I mean, they were adorable!

From Meow

If you want to relax and have some peaceful days... you can't beat Çıralı with its calm beach, nearby ruins and the mystery of Chimaera flames. And the best part, Mehmet's hospitality!